Monday, October 13, 2014

The Wisconsin Supper Club








Every great restaurant tries to capture some essential identity mark that carries along with the customer far after the dining.  Because Ishnala is built on the edge of Mirror Lake, nestled in under the hanging pines (a few pines growing inside the building as well) and across a small bay from the ancient Winnebago Indian spiritual gathering point Echo Rock, this place doesn't have to try very hard at being nearly mystical.


The wooden dugout canoe hanging on a stand at the entrance, an immediate reminder, was once pulled up from the bottom of the lake.  The Winnebagos, before wintering down in Arizona, had to figure out a way to hide some of


their non-transportable goods, so purposefully sunk their canoes to keep them in waiting for the next season.  Trail, rock, pine and walking bridge


lead to a restaurant entrance which, when entered, feels as though it seamlessly moves on through


the very landscape itself.  That imaginary wish of what might be the most interesting restaurant experience plays out as you move inside and sit down at your table: 'what would it be like to eat in a restaurant that is the woods, is the lake, the sandstone rock?'


We tried the vineyard steak filet (sun dried tomato and goat cheese encrusted), and a cognac-orange glazed duck (glaze on the side for Julia), and it was certainly earthy but prepared in a non-formal supper club way that would appeal to most folks.  Brandy old-fashions, the most popular cocktail in Wisconsin, was not exactly an uncommon sight here; pines rose up from below the dining room, and waved at the dying sunlight which shone in patches off the surface of the lake that then shone back at us, keeping its namesake, mirror, with us every bite.  


















No comments:

Post a Comment